A Juneteenth Inspired Cookbook

Food writer Nicole A. Taylor has written a new cookbook, Watermelon and Red Birds: A Cookbook for Juneteenth and Black Celebrations, inspired by her years observing the holiday commemorating the end of slavery in the United States. Before the holiday, now officially recognized by the federal government, Taylor joins us to talk about the history of Juneteenth cooking, as well share some recipes for main dishes, desserts, and special drinks you may want to try out this weekend. Southern-ish Potato Salad (exerpt) SERVES 6 TO 8 The greatest failure when making potato salad is overcooking the spuds—creamy mashed pota- toes is a no-go for any potato salad recipe. You want a waxy variety like fingerlings, Yukon Golds, or red potatoes; these varieties will keep their shape and texture when cooked right. Bobby Seale, cofounder of the Black Panther Party, said it well in his 1988 cookbook Barbeque’n with Bobby, where he wrote under a recipe titled “Hunky Crunchy Potato Salad” that his mother’s potato salad was a “tasty quasi-mashed potato salad.” My pro tip is to season the potatoes while they are warm. Begin your training to be a queen. 3 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces⅓ cup plus 2 teaspoons kosher salt 8 ounces bacon (optional)About 4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter (if omitting the bacon)1 medium yellow onion, chopped 1 fennel bulb, cored and chopped¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil½ cup sour cream ¼ cup fresh parsley leaves and stems, chopped, plus 2 tablespoons leaves for garnish2 teaspoons ground mustard1 teaspoon smoked paprika, plus extra for garnishZest of 2 lemons (2 tablespoons)3 tablespoons Quick-Pickled Banana Pepper brine (page 44)¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Peel your potatoes and rinse in cold water. Place the potatoes in a large pot and add water to cover (around 10 cups) and ⅓ cup of the salt. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook the potatoes, uncovered, until just tender but with some bite still, 18 to 25 minutes. Be sure not to overcook the potatoes—you don’t want mushy potato salad! Drain the potatoes and transfer to a large bowl. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of the salt and allow to cool for 30 minutes or so. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, cook the bacon (if using) over medium heat until the fat is rendered and the bacon is crisp and browned, 7 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel–lined plate, leaving the fat in the pan. (If you’re omitting the bacon, melt the butter in a large skillet here.) Add the onion and fennel to the hot bacon fat in the skillet and cook until softened, about5 minutes. Season with the remaining 1 teaspoon of salt. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Add the cooled fennel mixture to the bowl with the potatoes, then add the olive oil, sour cream, chopped parsley, ground mustard, paprika, lemon zest, pickled banana pepper brine, and pepper and stir to combine. Taste! Taste! If necessary, you may need to add a tad more of the seasonings and sour cream. Garnish with the parsley leaves and, if desired, an extra pinch of paprika. We’re talking about potato salad here, so: everyone has their way. Some people make it the day of; some people make it the day ahead. Store in the refrigerator until ready to serve.