Why Do Chicagoans Love (And Loathe) Malört?

Why, after almost a century of toiling in obscurity, did Malört experience a cultural and economic renaissance in the 2010s, making it not just a staple at Chicago dive bars but in high-end cocktail lounges and cities around the country? Those questions are all addressed in local writer Josh Noel’s latest book, “Malört: The Redemption of a Revered and Reviled Spirit,” published earlier this month by Chicago Review Press.