444 - Felipe Pomar: Part One

1965 World Surfing Champion Felipe Pomar joins us to discuss lessons he's learned from 66 years of big wave riding, why he stopped drinking 60 years ago, how he plans to surf till 100, losing a friend at Pipeline, and why it's a bad idea to attempt to surf a tsunami. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices