ep. 50 - creative directors in today's fashion climate

hello to the archivists XDXD in ep. 50 we’re talking about the creative director—how the role was born, how it got messy, and what’s next.Let’s start with karl. Lagerfeld was the OG. In 1974, he was the sole designer at chloé—before the title "creative director" even existed. But with him, something shifted. Designers stopped being just garment-makers and started building worlds. He worked on the brand’s visual identity, storytelling, image—everything.Then came Bernard Arnault. He basically Voldemorted his way into fashion—strategic, relentless, quietly building an empire. His hostile takeover of Boussac and Dior was the beginning. And then he went full power mode: Galliano. McQueen. Marc Jacobs. That era? Pure auteur energy. These designers were setting culture.Fast forward to now and it's a chess game. Creative directors barely last a full year. The pressure’s more insane than ever even if you thought it was not possible, the timelines are brutal, and everyone’s trying to stay relevant and sell bags.But maybe the future isn’t about the lone genius anymore. Maybe it’s collaborative—like Raf and Miuccia. Less ego, more ecosystem.Let’s talk about it.insta ‪@chez.amelie‬https://substack.com/@ameliestanescu