The Wine Critic Evolution w/ William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

The retirement of Robert Parker marked a major change in the role of the wine critic that had been building over time.  William Kelley, Reviewer of Burgundy, Champagne, English Sparkling, and Madeira for The Wine Advocate (“TWA”), gives us his thoughts on how the wine critic landscape is changing and why, the impact wine critics have on the market, and the role of TWA.  Dig deep into the mind of a wine critic on this episode of XChateau. Detailed Show Notes: William’s backgroundHe ran a tasting group at Oxford for 3 yearsHe was initially planning on becoming an academicHe ended up working a harvest in California in 2015Makes wine - Chenin Blanc in California (beginning in 2015), in Chambolle Musigny (beginning in 2018)Pitched a piece to Decanter and ended up becoming the North American and Burgundy editor2019 - got a call from The Wine Advocate (“TWA”) and became a reviewer thereCurrently researching a book on Burgundy that would not be an encyclopedia-style of bookThe evolving role of the wine criticTwo main trends changing the role of the wine criticThe scale of the wine world is bigger, and no one can taste everything anymore (which was possible when Robert Parker started) -> creates the need for more reviewers, more specialization, and critics living in the regions they coverThe explosion of the value of fine wine - most people can’t afford luxury wines today, this makes reviewers of high-end wines dependent on the producers, whereas Parker used to buy the wines and retain the consumer perspectiveMore small niches are being created in wine mediaSubscription models are still doing well (including at TWA)Lifestyle writing is moving beyond the aspirational and anchored more in realityMost wine media jobs are occupied by people who’ve been doing it for a long time (little mobility, ability for new voices to come up)Many people in wine media don’t make enough to make a livingPeople doing blogs are likely to go to mainstream media as people begin to retireCritic influenceConsumers spending a lot of money on wine still care which critics score the winesRetailers generally show the highest scores, regardless of who the critic isStrong/historic brands are “immune” to critic criticismHigh scores (e.g. - 100 points) still matterCedric Bouchard - gave a 2008 100 pointsHe wanted to show there’s no glass ceiling for winesThis gave Bouchard feedback and recognition for his growing practices, which were counter the Champagne normEgly-Ouriet, already an established top grower Champagne, said his business increased 33% after getting 100 points100 point scores can be a disruptor of the traditional hierarchyThe business model issue with wine media - critics sell the wine but don’t get a stake in the profitTWA’s role in the wine worldScores are needed in the industry to sell wineTWA has become like the “Standard & Poor’s” of the wine worldParker also sold a lifestyle - he had charisma, led a lifestyle of opening great wines and at well, including at events with clientsRecently launched new sustainability featuresA filter for organic and biodynamic wines (for all wines)Nominations for producers who work sustainably in an exemplary manner (a small set of producers)William reviews ~5,000 wines/year and gets to choose which wines to reviewPathways to becoming an iconic brand todayBizot never got 100 points, still an iconic, cult brandNeed the right confluence of market dynamicsScore inflationThere has been some score inflationScore compression is a bigger problem - scores are less differentiatedThis partly has to do with how people buy wine (e.g., they only buy 90+ point wines)New platforms that have an impact on the marketInstagram and WeChat are platforms that move the marketCellarTracker, Wine Berserkers are niche and don’t move the market as much Get access to library episodes Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.