Un-Sprained S1 Episode 12: Pockets vs Narrow edges. What is more dangerous? Pulley risks revealed.

There is research on climbing pulley injuries?! Heck ya!! This week on Un-Sprained we are going to cover the how, why and when of pulley injuries. Regardless of if you are a new climber, a veteran climber or a coach, join me for 2 research studies on climbers who sustained a pulley injury, their climbing hold/hand statistics and what it means for understanding YOUR climbing risks. Today we cover warm-ups and their affect on pulley injuries, hold type (crimp, narrow edges, pockets, underclings, pinches, open-hands) and the injury risks of each. We also cover static holds (hangboard) as well as dynamic motions in regards to injury research. In today's episode we cover: >> Bowstringing and what it means. >> Proper warmups and why they matter. >> What a torn pulley means mechanically. >> How long you should expect yours to take to heal. >> Choosing your climbs to align with your goals. >> Long term maintenance of old angry pulleys. >> And more! A MUST LISTEN if you want to learn about your body and climbing (or if you want to be a pulley "expert"). I can't wait to hear what shocked you on this episode! I was!! There is extreme learning regardless of if you are a doc, a climber or a coach. Join me for this discussion and I hope you let me know what you think! Supportive Material: 1. Do you get surgery? research on the topic: https://bit.ly/3I5MHHU 2. My acute training plan if you need it (google sheets) https://bit.ly/3UDaENk 3.Want to read more?! Check out the book Climbing Injuries Solved https://bit.ly/3ttjzVN 4. Join me for a lecture on flexor tendons vs pulleys: https://bit.ly/3g08W9T 5. LOST?! Book an e-visit with me: https://bit.ly/3OxW1rB